Now let’s talk about the dark transfer paper, very similar process, we still line the surface on to which we are working with, another shirt just to give it a bit of cushioning and protection, here is my favorite black shirt which we are sacrificing for this video, doesn’t need to be new, this is a well worn one, and here is the dark transfer paper.
When you read the instructions you will see that there is another process that we ask you to do which is fixing process, excuse the noise, and the paper is supplied with the silicone sheet that we ask you to put back on top of the exposed image to give the image a quick additional press just to make sure in case you haven’t gone over everything if you missed a bit, if an area hasn’t been properly suck on, this is a fail proof stage, you peel that away here is the ready image, quite stretchable, soft and ready, as you can see the text has gone back to normal and the text has gone back to normal and the image is as was taken originally. So that’s about right, I’m going to put the iron to one side, little stretch of the corner I’m peeling it away. I’m using as you can see a simple iron, this one is 1400 watts, we recommend you use at least 1400 watt iron, if it’s hotter it’s better and I am very systematically covering every are of the transfer.
So here is our transfer, we printed it in mirror image and you’ll understand now why, we’re putting it face down on the garment, you’ll find in a minute when you see the dark process, in the dark process we put it face up, so the light transfer paper is placed face down that’s why the mirror image is printed on the paper and once we iron it, it will become sure again. So roughly trimming it, leaving a little edge around the image, I’m going to line my desk with a t-shirt, this is not the t-shirt I’m printing, this is just like as a cushioning and a bit of protection for the table below, you need to make sure that the surface on which you are printing is heat resistant and will not be damaged or affected by the heat, anything flat, table top, worktop, cutting board, as long as it’s flat never ever use a, an ironing board or anything with, which gives, which is not solid.
When you are printing light transfer paper and you will see the reason why, you are printing it in mirror image, you can see this is the same image, this is mirrored, you can tell by the text but also by the orientation of the girl here, and on the dark transfer paper we print it normally, we do not mirror the image and you will see why, what we are going to do it pint the light transfer paper and show you the process quickly, this is not the main instruction video, you’ll find a full intricate video on our channel talking specifically about the light transfer paper, so we are just talking about the comparison here, quite a large white area around the image, unlike the dark transfer paper I do need to trim it but I don’t need to worry too much about going all the way to the image, I can leave an edge, the reason I’m trimming it is mainly to shorten the process and also the white area which is unprinted here will to a small extent show on the surface that you are printing, so it’s a better practice to just trim it. So we have two products, we have a light transfer paper which is used for light garments, mainly white t-shirts or whiter substrates and the dark transfer paper which is printed on any substrate or surface which is not white, the darker the garment, the more you need to use the dark transfer paper, there are some colors of t-shirts or surface onto which you would get away with the light, the main difference between them and that becomes apparent when you print it that one need to be printed with a mirror image and the other doesn’t. So in this video we are going to talk about the differences between the light and the dark transfer paper, most of the calls about transfer paper we get in the office is with people who don’t understand why you have two different products and what product you should use for which color garment or substrate on which you are printing.